Trekking the Himalayas: Part Two

The best sunrise ever!

Woman in green clothes and two men in jackets standing next to Poon Hill sign while trekking the himalayas

Finally reached the top of Poon Hill (3,210 metres).

Our journey of trekking the Himalayas continued when we reached our intended height on the third day after a 7 hour hike through quiet towns with small houses and past trickling streams with clear water. We had to spend the night in the town of Ghorepani from where we would depart to watch the sunrise at Poon Hill—the goal of our trip. This night was to be the coldest yet. We found a box in the hall of our lodging that had extra bedsheets that we used as added layers for warmth. The next morning at dawn, we set off up the steps for an hour, using the extra sheets as scarves under our clothes. Once at the top, we found a spot among the many tourists eager to watch the skies slowly awaken over the jagged peaks of Annapurna. People took the opportunity to snap away at what was truly deserving of such camera-ready travelers. Now that the climax of our Himalayan adventure was reached, it was time to begin our descent. However, the beauty of the mountains was not nearly over.

Two men in rain clothes standing under red and yellow sign while trekking the himalayas

Arriving at the town of Ghorepani.

View of Annapurna peaks in the early morning

The peaks peeking out from behind the grass.

Stuck in a hailstorm

Soon after leaving Ghorepani, we came across a field with a spectacular view of the peaks. Mountain yaks grazed quietly in the field. We stopped to have a snack here, and once again admire the paradoxical beauty. From where we sat, the peaks appeared calming and peaceful. But we knew at that height, the force of the wind and snow was anything but.

We felt a touch of the mountain’s force on one of our last trekking days. We were relaxing outside of our accommodation in the middle of the day. In front of us were the peaks of Annapurna and Fishtail Mountain. Suddenly, the skies began to darken and we saw the hostel workers taking the tables and chairs inside. The sky seemed split in half—one side was as clear as day, and the other was quickly becoming gray. Then we heard what sounded like distant rain. We felt it coming closer and closer as we stood outside. It was the first time I have actually seen and felt a storm approach. Then it was dark and the storm was upon us. But we realized it wasn’t rain…it was hail. Pieces the size of small rocks were hailing thunderously all around us and now we had to retreat inside. From inside, the sound of the falling hail rattled the roof loudly. And then, as quickly as it had come, it was gone. The hail stopped and the clouds cleared up to reveal the afternoon sun. The storm returned that night and I awakened thinking that the tin roof was sure to cave in from the heavy hail. Just another reminder of the mountain’s strength.

Woman wearing green shirt and blue hat sitting with blue backpack staring at snowy mountain peaks

Admiring the view from the top.

Darkening skies of approaching hailstorm while trekking the himalayas

The hail storm that appeared out of nowhere.

The descent…

Climbing down was just as challenging at times as going up. The stone steps seemed endless and it would come to a point where you would just let your feet fall onto the next step and your body follow. We talked about anything and everything, and when we ran out of topics, we would continue on in silence. There were definitely things to keep us entertained on the trek. We encountered other trekkers with their porters, many locals going about work, and animals such as chickens, horses, monkeys, and of course yaks. Once, we heard several bells and looked down to see a herd of goats with their shepherds coming up. We had to step aside and wait for them to clumsily trod by.

Man wearing backpack walking down stone steps of mountain

The journey to the bottom

Long grass in field with stone house in the mountains

Change of scenery as we descended.

The Himalayan people were extremely friendly and welcoming. They were always willing to spark up a conversation or help with directions. We were almost at the end of our hike on day seven when we finally got lost. We took a wrong turn and ended up walking through a forest with no clear path. I guess a trek isn’t complete without losing your way at some point. When we finally found our way, we were certainly ready to meet our driver and head back to Pokhara for a hot shower. But watching the snowy peaks disappear behind us definitely left us with a feeling of longing—of sleepy towns, tasty meals of dhal bhat, wintery nights, flowing streams, and indescribable views. Trekking the Himalayas has undoubtedly become one of my most memorable experiences to date.

Trekking the Himalayas: Part One

The Himalayas. A word that sounded so distant and majestic, only heard of in stories of the Far East. I always thought that trekking the Himalayas was a challenge very few daring people took on. That was my sheltered naivety of course. But moving to Asia brought such destinations closer and they became more possible to get to. So, when we researched the Himalayan mountain range, we discovered it wasn’t that impossible to go on a trek. We opted for the Annapurna mountain course due to our time frame and it being our first trekking experience. Thought not as well-known as the famed Mt. Everest, Annapurna is not much smaller in height. While Everest peaks at 8,848 metres, Annapurna reaches 8,091 metres. A common course is to trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) at 4,130 metres in 10 days. We could only devote 7 days to the Himalayas, so we chose the route to Poon Hill (3,210 metres).

Sunrise over Himalayan mountains in Annapurna range

Best sunrise in the world on top of the mountains

Arriving in Pokhara

To start your journey, you must go to Pokhara, a small picturesque town at the base of the mountains. We arrived in Pokhara via bus—a cliff-hugging, shaky trip from Nepal’s capital, Kathmandu. We found comfortable lodging at Snow Hill Lodge in Pokhara, where we stayed for two days to get prepared. Most accommodations will hold your luggage while you trek, which is helpful. We spent our time getting trekking permits and enjoyed canoeing on the lake, as well as having delicious meals of chai and parantha (hot, crispy, fried “bread”). Then we were ready to go.

Our trip began with an hour taxi ride on the winding mountainous roads (arranged for by Snow Hill Lodge). Our driver dropped us off at what seemed to be a random roadside shop. To the right of the shop was a path we were told to follow. We did, and it lead us to a permit office after which we could officially begin our trek. And off we went!

View of Pokhara Lake in mountain town of Pokhara

Phewa Lake, Pokhara

Room with two single beds in small motel room

Our room at Snow Hill Lodge

Hot Indian fried bread with spiced tea and lentil curry

Chai and parantha for breakfast

The adventure begins…

The first day of our trek proved to the most difficult as our legs were not used to it. We trekked for five hours along dirt roads that still had a few vehicles passing by. After a while, the roads were replaced by stone paths and the vehicles by the jingle of transport mules. The latter became a habitual sound over the next few days. We stopped for the day in a small town overlooking rolling green hills. The accommodation was basic, but comfortable. We got an early night’s rest and woke up fresh for day two.

Man with blue backpack walking alongside group of transport mules in the Himalayan mountains

Some of the many transport mules we came across

Group of women vendors wearing brightly coloured clothes sitting on a stone wall selling their goods in Nepal

Local vendors waiting under the shade

Wooden steps leading up a hill to a traditional Nepalese village in the Himalayas

Our first stop at the village of Tikhedhunga

Cold nights and hot days

The scenery changed constantly as we got higher into the mountains—from wide open roads, to winding stone steps, to lush green forests. We each carried a backpack with rain covers to protect our belongings. During the day, it would occasionally rain, but was mostly very warm and sunny. The mornings and evenings were crisp and we would shed layers as the day grew on. The nights were another thing. The temperature would drop considerably. The accommodations had stone-walled rooms. Thick, warm blankets were thankfully always provided (we had heard otherwise). However, as someone who is very sensitive to the cold, some nights even all the clothing and blankets weren’t enough! The sunny warmth of the day was quickly forgotten as I shivered to sleep. It was as though the mountain was reminding us of its regal power. And power is just what we felt when we first caught a glimpse of the snowy white peaks. We had to stop in our tracks and truly take in the complete majesty of them.

Snow drifting off the mountain peaks in the distant Himalayas

First glimpse of the majestic peaks

Meals on the mountain

One thing I failed to mention so far is what we ate. On the mountains, you will find one staple meal—dhal bhat. Made up of lentils, cooked vegetables, rice, and a dried-lentil cracker, this hearty meal offered the necessary nourishment for our long days. The best part—free refills! Dhal bhat is completely vegetarian. As meat is hard to come by up in the mountains, you will pay about double the price if you want it. Eating dhal bhat for lunch and dinner every day meant there were times when we wanted a change. However, the “pizzas” and “pastas” on the menus were certainly not what the people of the Himalayas took pride in. It was definitely the fresh, home-cooked taste of dhal bhat that we remember.

For breakfast, we ate dried oats that we had brought with us and drank tea (although the only form of milk up there was powdered). We also had other snacks such as nuts and dried fruits to keep us going. Another important thing to bring are Aquatabs to purify your water. This allowed us to fill up our bottles anywhere and not risk the possibility of getting sick from the water. We easily found these tablets in Pokhara. In the evenings, over a game of cards, it was comforting (and warming) to have a drink of local Khukuri rum. We even created our own drink of rum, hot water, honey, and fresh mint called the “Hot Himalayan”. In contrast, during the day we found that a drink of “Cold Lemon” (lemonade with ice and sugar) was perfectly refreshing.

Silvar platter with rice, lentils, vegetable curry, and Indian bread

Hot meal of dhal bhat

Man and woman sitting at a table drinking a cold drink of lemonade with the Himalayas in the backdrop

Enjoying a drink of Cold Lemon

Our amazing adventure on Annapurna continues in Part Two…

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